Cashmere is a luxurious and ultra-soft natural fiber obtained from cashmere goats, pashmina goats and other goat breeds. It is also known as Kashmir fabric because it originated in the Kashmir region, located in the northwestern part of the Indian subcontinent.
Specifically, cashmere is made from the goats’ soft undercoat. It is composed mainly of keratin, a protein made up of amino acids. Cashmere is a renewable fiber, as goats naturally shed their undercoat once a year. The fiber can therefore be harvested annually without harming the animals.
Traceability is moderate and depends on the supply chain. In modern commercial supply chains, traceability can be complex due to the involvement of multiple countries and regions in the production process.
Cashmere manufacturing processes transform raw animal fiber into yarns or fabrics, which are then made into finished garments. The manufacturing process involves several steps, as shown below:
- Shearing - Fully coated goats are sheared to obtain the fiber.
- Cleaning
- Combining - Individual fibers are aligned into straight strands and carded in groups.
- Spinning
- Dyeing and final cleaning
- Weaving
- Finishing
China is the world’s largest producer of raw cashmere fiber, accounting for around 70% of global production. India, Mongolia, Afghanistan, Iran, Turkey and Kyrgyzstan also produce smaller quantities of cashmere.
The spinning capacity of cashmere depends on the level of advancement of the machinery used in the process. The cashmere industry has strong knitting capacity with the use of 2D and 3D knitting machines. Most knitted products, such as sweaters, cardigans and other knitwear, are produced using modern flatbed or circular knitting machines.
Cashmere must be handled carefully during cutting and sewing because of its delicate structure. Compared to many synthetic fibers, cashmere is more prone to stretching and damage if not handled properly.
Material yield is also relatively low. One goat produces only about 100-150 grams of usable fiber per year, and part of the fiber is damaged during the cleaning stage. As a result, the final yield of spinnable fiber is even lower than the amount of raw fiber collected from goats.
Here are some characteristics that make the cashmere fabric special:
- Physical properties: Naturally soft, luxurious in appearance with subtle sheen, lightweight and lower elasticity compared to other synthetic fibers
- Comfort and feel: Soft against the skin, helps maintain a stable body temperature, and highly breathable
- Aesthetic properties: Compatible with various types of dyes, naturally matte texture, durability and design versatility
- Technical performance: Excellent heat retention, insulation capabilities and high moisture absorbancy
Cashmere is mainly used in the textile industry. Here are a few examples:
- Clothing: Sweaters, cardigans, jackets, coats and luxury knitwear
- Accessories: Scarves, mittens, hats, beanies and wraps
- Luxury fashion:Designer fashion collections
- Layering garments
- Home textiles: Blankets, throws, other decorative items
- Blended fabrics: Blends with wool, silk or other fibers
High-quality cashmere can last for 10 years or even more with proper care. Hand washing is recommended for cashmere items, using a mild detergent and cold water. Professional dry cleaning may also be suitable. When storing items, it is recommended to fold them flat rather than hang them, to protect them from moths and dust. Pilling is natural, especially during early use, and can be safely removed with a cashmere comb or fabric shaver.
Cashmere is a highly repairable fabric. Small holes, thinning areas or damaged seams can be easily repaired through re-knitting, darning or patching. These repairs can improve its durability, making cashmere suitable for long-term use and circular economy practices.
Cashmere production has significant environmental impact. It requires a considerable amount of water for the cleaning, dyeing, and finishing stages. Wastewater from these processes can contain chemicals, and if not properly managed, it may pollute rivers, streams, and local ecosystems. As spinning, knitting, dyeing and finishing stages rely on electricity, energy consumption in the manufacturing process is also high. Increasing demand for cashmere has also led to overgrazing, soil erosion and desertification in grasslands and biodiversity loss.
Apart from all these challenges, cashmere still can be part of a sustainable and circular textile system. Repairing, recycling and regenerating cashmere fibers reduce the need for new raw materials, water use, energy consumption, and carbon emissions. Supply chain transparency and responsible handling of unusable items can further help reduce the environmental impact of cashmere products.
Cashmere is considered a luxury textile due to its high demand and limited availability. As mentioned earlier, one goat produces only around 100-150 grams of fiber per year. This is the main reason for cashmere’s high price. Its supply stability also depends on several factors, such as weather conditions, animal health and geopolitical conditions in the producing countries.
As a summary, here are some advantages and disadvantages:
Advantages: Exceptional natural softness, luxurious appearance, lightweight nature, ability to maintain a stable body temperature in cold conditions, high breathability, durability, repairability, renewable fiber and support for a circular economy.
Disadvantages: High cost, requires careful handling, low material yield, pilling, environmental impact, and dependence on factors such as goat population, climate and geopolitical conditions.
Overall, cashmere is a luxurious and versatile fabric with distinctive qualities such as softness, warmth and elegant appearance. While it presents challenges such as high cost and environmental impact, its durability, comfort, and potential for sustainability make it a valued material in fashion and textiles.